Wednesday, October 3, 2007

Cheeseburger in Paradise


Sunday night in Waikiki. Jimmy Buffet is playing at Dukes, says one over anxious surfer I met out at ? Bowl. The waves are small with an occasional over head set that looks amazing. I took one wave to the right, through a pile of people, luckily I actually turned, and then I looked down. Holy shit! The reason this place “bowls” like it does and creates such a perfect tubular wave is because the wave hits a reef and jacks up. Well, I’ve been surfing over reef for a few days now but I have never seen it whizzing by me like this. I was about five inches from the reef trying to keep up with this wave on my nine foot long board. The water is crystal aqua marine blue. Stunning. When you’re waiting for waves you can see your feet dangling below you, when you’re surfing on a particularly shallow section, the reef looks like it’s going to jump up and grab you and mangle your body. Zooming precariously over the reef was amazing, thrilling, scary. After that I started going left where the water is deeper.

Back to Buffet, so this lovely man with tattoos all over tells me Jimmy is playing a free impromptu concert. RAD! I walk a mile or so down the beach to Duke’s; it’s packed. I see the surfer and some of his friends and It looks like the buzz was just a buzz, or if anything Jimmy wasn’t going to show up til later. I’d like to say that at least I got a cheeseburger in paradise, but I was pooped and turned around to saunter home through the tourists and baby surf. Sunday is a wonderful day here at yoga boot camp. It is so sweet to take in the island life, but it is over so soon. Come Monday, it’ll be all right, come Monday, I’ll be holding my foot tight (in standing head to knee). Back to boot camp.


1 comment:

Spencer Bennett Crouch said...

I love cheeseburgers and i love paradise! what a combo! too bad jimmy didn't show before you wearily strolled the lonely beach full of lovers. but we are a different variety in that we are only connected by the universe and our spirit grows stronger each day we are separate yet one with each other, the universe, ourselves..Ourselves! Sunday is your day, you are about to awaken. I see you have changed, your body is getting more oxygenated