My feet dangle.
Delicious toes
Fishes, seaweed, sharks
Who knows who’s checking out these flat feet?
It feels divine
To dangle
My feet over the side
Of my surfboard as I stare at the horizon
Waiting for waves.
Nov. 1, 2009
5 p.m.
Paddle, paddle
Surf…
Catching the wave and riding toward the shore
Looking at the water flowing past me sparkling and dancing as I turn
Weeeeeee, I feel freeeeeee….
Looking up
The cliffs darkening
Details disappearing
with the fading light.
I see the glow of the rising moon like a halo ascending…
Crash.
Damn.
Paddle out
Spry, spunky, psyched
Strong
I see
The sun is sinking down
beyond the horizon.
Catalina, surfers, boats
Become black silhouettes, darkening by the second.
I never want to go in
A wave is building and I tag it mine
Turning to face the shore
Paddle, paddle
Surf…
Standing on a moving mound of energy I ride
toward the growing light of the moon
Away
from the fading light of the sun
The moon has emerged over the cliffs
shining on me like a beacon
as I ride the water.
Turning off the wave and looking out once again
I see that the sun has been swallowed by another day
Equal and simultaneous, and while surfing,
I see the moonrise and the sunset
The line of these two great forces, the balance of sun and moon,
is dissecting me as I float on this bit of foam on the surface of the shimmering metallic
ocean.
I am a witness
honored
I see the moon and sun greet each other for just a moment
And then
Bid farewell
I feel like I was invited here,
to this beach,
at this time,
for this occasion.
For if not,
Why else would I be here?
Timing is everything.
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